The Egadi Islands

Of the various islands, islets and rock stacks that fan out from the west coast of Sicily, the three Egadi islands (Isole Egadi) are best for a quick jaunt – connected by ferry and hydrofoil with Trapani. The islands have been saved from depopulation by tourism, so in season at least you’re not going to be alone, certainly on the main island, Favignana, where in August every scrap of flat rock and sand is filled. But a tour of the islands is worthwhile, not least for the caves that perforate the splintered coastlines. Out of season things are noticeably quieter, and in May or June you may witness the bloody Mattanza, an age-old slaughter in this noted centre of tuna fishing, though its future is uncertain.

Favignana

FAVIGNANA, island and port town, is first stop for the boats from Trapani, and makes a good base since it has virtually all the accommodation and the Egadis’ only campsites. Just 25 minutes by hydrofoils from the mainland, the island attracts a lot of day-trippers, keen to get onto is few rocky beaches. But get out of the main port and it’s easy enough to escape the crowds, even easier with a bike (which can be rented from dozens of outlets in the centre of town). Caves all over the island bear prehistoric traces and many are accessible if you’re determined enough. Otherwise, the two wings of the island invite separate walks; best is the circuit around the eastern part, past the bizarre ancient quarries at Cala Rossa, over the cliffs to Cala Azzurra and than following the coast past the ugly tourist village at Punta Fanfalo to Lido Burrone, one of the island’s best beaches, only 1km from the port. Other beaches worth checking out are Cala Rossa and Caa Azzurra, on the eastern end of the island.

Levanzo

LEVANZO, to the north of Favignana, looks immediately inviting, its white houses against a turquoise sea reminiscent of the Greek islands. The steep coast is full of inlets and riddled with caves: the Grotta del Genovese was discovered in 1949 and contains some remarkable Paleolithic incised drawings, six thousand years old, as well as later Neolithic pictures. Tours to the cave (eur. 22.50/person) leave twice daily in summer by boat, less frequently in winter by jeep, and must be booked in advance, by phone or at Via Calvario 11, above the quay (339 741 8800, www.grottadelgenovese.it). The island’s interior has some great walks along old cart tracks, and there’s a paved (and virtually traffic-free) cornice road leading to a lovely white pebble beach by the jagged rocks of the Faraglioni.

Marettimo

MARETTIMO, furthest out of the Egadi islands, is the place to come for solitude. Very much off the beaten track, it’s visited by only a few tourists. White houses are scattered across the rocky island, and there’s a bar in the main piazza, along with two restaurants. The spectacular fragmented coastline is pitted with rocky coves sheltering hideaway beaches, and there are numerous gentle walks, which will take you all over the island.